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Princess Cut Solitaire: A Guide to the Square Diamond

The princess cut is a square diamond with sharp corners and a favourite for modern solitaires. We explain its light, how its corners are protected and the proportions to look for.

3 min readUpdated: October 7, 2026

Princess Cut Solitaire: A Guide to the Square Diamond

Short answer: The princess cut is a square diamond with sharp corners; after the round cut, it is one of the most popular shapes for solitaires. Thanks to its brilliant-style facets it sparkles strongly and gives a modern, strong look. When choosing one, check that the stone is really close to square (length-to-width ratio 1.00–1.05), that the corners are protected by prongs, and the cut quality.

What is the princess cut?

Seen from above, the princess cut is square; seen from the side, it is an inverted pyramid. Its facets create crossing, “X”-shaped reflections inside the stone, which give it a lively sparkle. Developed in the second half of the 20th century, this cut quickly became a favourite for modern solitaires.

Why the princess cut?

  • A modern look: sharp lines and clean corners; a simple, strong style.
  • High sparkle: thanks to its brilliant-style facets, it is one of the most brilliant of the angular shapes.
  • Good value per carat: because less of the rough is lost, it is usually more affordable than a round stone at the same carat and quality.
  • It sits well with a wedding band: its straight sides sit flush against straight wedding bands without a gap. Wearing a solitaire and a band together.

What to check when choosing a princess stone

How square it is

Stones with a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05 look perfectly square to the eye. As the ratio grows, the stone becomes a rectangle; that is a matter of taste, but the classic princess is square.

Protecting the corners

The four corners of a princess are sharp and are its most sensitive points. In a good setting, each corner is wrapped by a “V”-shaped prong. This both protects the stone and brings out the line of the square. Can a diamond break?

Depth and table

Princess stones are cut deeper than round ones, so at the same carat their face looks a little smaller. A 1-carat princess is about 5.5 × 5.5 mm. Very deep stones look even smaller; stones with balanced proportions should be chosen.

Colour and clarity

A princess can show colour a little more at its corners; in white gold, G–H colour is a safe choice. Its brilliant-style facets hide inclusions well; VS2 is usually eye clean. The clarity scale.

Princess cut versus round cut

Princess Round
Look Modern, sharp Classic, soft
Sparkle Very high The highest
Face at the same carat A little smaller Standard
Sensitive points Four corners None
Price per carat Usually lower The highest

Princess solitaire and halo: a square halo makes a princess stone look bigger than it is and adds extra protection to its corners. A bezel setting instead of prongs wraps the corners completely; it is a safe option for a very active life. Solitaire settings.

You can see a princess-cut stone on a hand at true scale in our ring designer, and look at the princess designs made in our workshop in the gallery.

Frequently asked questions

What does princess cut mean?

It is a square diamond shape with sharp corners. Thanks to its brilliant-style facets it sparkles strongly and gives a modern look.


Princess cut or round?

Round is the classic and most brilliant choice; if you want modern, sharp lines and a lower price per carat, choose princess. Both are beautiful for a solitaire.


How many mm is a 1-carat princess?

About 5.5 × 5.5 mm. Because the princess is cut deeper, it can look a little smaller than a round stone of the same carat.


Can a princess-cut stone break?

Its corners are sensitive to knocks. With a setting that protects the corners with V-shaped prongs or a bezel, it is suitable for everyday wear.

Round brilliant lab-grown diamond on petrol-green velvet

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