Emerald Cut Solitaire: The Elegance of a Step Cut

Short answer: The emerald cut is a rectangular diamond shape with cut corners, cut in parallel steps. Instead of the sparkle of a round cut, it gives broad, mirror-like reflections and a calm, deep light. Because the inside of the stone looks like a window, clarity and colour matter more; VS1 clarity and above, and G colour and above in white gold, are recommended. It is the choice of those who want a simple, elegant and timeless style.

What is a step cut?

In a brilliant cut, dozens of small facets break up and scatter light; in a step cut, a few broad, flat surfaces run in steps along the edges of the stone. This arrangement creates broad reflections that give a sense of depth, like a “hall of mirrors”, when you look into the stone. The emerald cut takes its name from this cut, used on emeralds for centuries.

Why the emerald cut?

• Calm, architectural light: clarity and depth rather than sparkle; a simple, chic look.
• A larger face: thanks to its shallow, wide shape, it offers a large face at the same carat. A 1-carat emerald cut is about 7 × 5 mm.
• It lengthens the finger: its rectangular shape makes the finger look slim and long.
• Timeless: it is a staple of classic and vintage designs.

What to check when choosing an emerald cut

Clarity

In a step cut, the inside of the stone looks like a window; there is no sparkle to hide small marks as in a round cut. So VS1 clarity and above is recommended, and VVS is even safer for large stones. The clarity scale.

Colour

Broad surfaces show colour more openly. In white gold, G colour and above is a good choice; in yellow and rose gold, H colour. Colour grades.

Length-to-width ratio

In a classic emerald cut the ratio is about 1.30–1.50. Around 1.40 looks balanced; closer to 1.50 looks longer and more elegant. It depends on taste.

The arrangement of the steps

The steps should be symmetrical and parallel; there should be a broad, bright “window” in the centre of the stone and regular reflections. The centre of a badly cut emerald stone can look dull and glassy.

Emerald cut and asscher

The asscher is the square version of the emerald cut: the same stepped structure, but a square shape and a deeper look. Seen from above, it looks like a tunnel of squares inside squares. The emerald cut gives a longer, more elegant effect; the asscher a more geometric, vintage one.

Who does it suit?

The emerald cut is ideal for someone who loves simple, clean-lined clothes and minimal jewellery and prefers elegance to glamour. It looks very chic on long fingers and lengthens shorter fingers. You can see an emerald-cut stone on a hand at true scale in our ring designer.

Frequently asked questions