Marquise Cut Ring: Features and Buying Guide

Short answer: The marquise cut is a long, graceful diamond shape pointed at both ends; it looks like an eye or the hull of a boat. It is one of the cuts that looks biggest for its carat, and it makes the finger look long and slim. When choosing one, check the length-to-width ratio (about 1.75–2.25), the “bow-tie” shadow across the centre of the stone, and that both pointed ends are protected by prongs.

The story of the marquise cut

Its name is said to come from a marquise who lived in 18th-century France; the shape is said to recall her smile. Another name for it is “navette”, French for a little boat. Whichever story you prefer, the marquise cut has been a symbol of grace and a striking presence for centuries.

Why marquise?

• It looks big: thanks to its long face, it looks clearly bigger than a round stone of the same carat. A 1-carat marquise is about 10 × 5 mm.
• It lengthens the finger: worn along the finger, it slims and lengthens it.
• It is different: it is not as common as round; a distinctive choice with character.
• It can cost less per carat: at the same carat and quality, it is usually more affordable than a round cut.

What to check when choosing a marquise stone

Length-to-width ratio

This is the ratio of the stone’s length to its width. In a classic marquise it is about 1.75–2.25; ratios close to 2 look most balanced. A shorter stone can look stubby, and a very long one too thin.

The bow-tie effect

A dark bow-tie shadow, where light does not return, can form across the centre of elongated shapes. In a well-cut stone this shadow is faint and pleasant; in a poor cut it is strong and dark. It is not written on the report; in well-cut stones with balanced proportions it stays faint.

Symmetry

The two ends should line up and the two wings should match. Even slight lopsidedness catches the eye at once in a marquise.

Protecting the points

The two sharp ends of a marquise are its most sensitive points. In a good setting, each end is wrapped and protected by a “V”-shaped prong. Can a diamond break?

Marquise ring designs

• Marquise solitaire: A single marquise stone; simple and striking.
• Marquise halo: Small diamonds around it make the stone look even bigger. What is a halo?
• Marquise side stones: A round or oval stone in the centre, with small marquises on the sides.
• Marquise rows: Half or full eternity bands made of small marquises side by side. Half eternity ring.

You can see the marquise designs made in our workshop in the gallery.

Colour and clarity

Because the marquise is a brilliant-style cut, it hides small inclusions well; VS2 and eye-clean SI1 are good choices. Colour can show a little more at the ends; in white gold, G–H colour is a safe range. What does G colour mean?

Frequently asked questions